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Barcelona Hot and Hip

Gaudi but never gaudy, Barcelona is a city that practically dares you not to fall in love with its countless charms. Picture this gorgeous conundrum: the broad, arbor boulevards of Paris in the upscale sector of town; and the Barrio Chino, that dates from Gothic times, home to Barcelona's artsy/boho set. Those are the two faces of this city that offers the perfect scene for you – whether you're the uptown or downtown sort.

What provides Barcelona with its undeniable allure? First and foremost is its spellbinding natural setting, nestling as it does the country's busiest port. (Barcelona's oceanfront prominence also explains its centuries-old position as the richest commercial center in Spain.) Plus, there's this cardinal rule: Any visually thrilling city needs to have water somewhere in the picture, and Barcelona throws aces in that area, too.

A world-class city also must show financial strength, and Barcelona feels so damn affluent it hurts. The Catalans have always been the economic miracle workers of the Iberian Peninsula, and today the city feels progressive and rich enough to make New York feel downright third world!

And of course, a city of the world needs a solid social scene, and Barcelona's is dizzying. Not in Madrid's slightly madcap, ragtag fashion, but in an elegant European way. "We don't go out every night," one resident told me. "Unlike the rest of Spain, we work." Catalan superiority aside, there's truth to this; and indeed, the clubs here are much busier on weekends than during the week. (That stands in direct contrast to Madrid, where guys and dolls are out in force from Monday night on.)

Need more convincing of Barcelona's beauty? As a travel writer, I've been in almost every corner of the world. And yet, when people ask me where I could live if I could pick any city in the world, it's not London or Paris or even New York – it's Barcelona, all the way. Fact is, the only negative about visiting this heavenly city is that you may have to be pushed onto the plane for your homeward flight. I know I am, no matter how many times I go.

WHERE TO STAY

HOTEL CALIFORNIA (Raurich 14; 93/317-77-76) is no longer the boho bumstead it was 10 years ago; they even accept credit cards now! Still, for a cheap hideaway in the way-cool gothic quarter, the California can't be beat.
HOTEL OASIS (Placa Palacia 17; 93/319-43-96) is super cheap and in the portside Barceloneta neighborhood. Not luxe by any means, but within walking distance of the downtown nightlife. Bohemians only need apply.
CONDES DE BARCELONA (Passeig de Gracia 73; 93/488-22-00) boasts an Art Nouveau edifice with an Oriental-style lobby and beautifully classic rooms. An uptown choice for trust fund darlings.
RITZ (Gran Via de los Corts Cataloanes 668; 93/318-52-00) doesn't need a build-up, but if you're not on expense account, don't even think about this art-deco masterpiece. If you are, do – but don't forget to invite me to your room for a drink.

WHERE TO EAT

DIVA (Diputacio 172) has the cutest wait staff in town and a light Mediterranean cuisine. The clientele is mixed, with a slant toward los muchachos. It's open very late on weekends (even by Spanish standards), which makes it perfect before hitting the nearby clubs.
EGIPTE (La Rambla 79) is a classic you shouldn't miss – especially at lunch, where their set menu, around seven bucks, offers a two course wonder you couldn't cook at home. The fabes a la Catalana (fava beans with sausage Catalan style) is a must, as is the beef with pimento sauce.
ELS 4 GATS (Montsio 3) is described as a writers' hangout, but that's pushing it-unless the writers in question have had bestsellers. Expensive and classic, this is not wildly chic, but remains a fine place for business travelers to experience the best of upscale Catalan cooking.
QUO VADIS (Carme 7) calls out loud and clear to fashionistas from around the world. It's among the trendiest restaurants in town, though the kitchen is uneven, turning out a potpourri of far-flung dishes with a somewhat attitudinous touch. Still, style queens won't want to miss this place.
VENUS (Avinyo 25) couldn't be any cooler if it tried. It looks more like a San Francisco-style cafe than a Spanish joint, but the hip young crowd attracted by scenester sisters Merci and Montse (dig them Catalan monikers!) luv it anyway. This is totally, a must.

WHERE TO SHOP

ART BOX (Petritxol 1) is a bilevel treasure of contemporary art. There are two marvelous machines displaying contempory art lithos – the perfect gift for you and yours. Plus, a small gallery of works is by cool local artists in the back.
BOPAPIER (Augusta 49) is the best place in town for world-famous Catalan ceramics. Some are modern, others replicate traditional 18th-century Spanish designs.
BELISS HOME (Princep d'Asturies 7) is a bit out-of-the-way, but has an excellent selection of high-end men's suits by Spanish designers like Florentino and Alfredo Domingues.
ARMANDO BASI (Passeig de Gracia 49) remains the most influential Catalan designer; his togs for women and men aren't cheap, but they're at the top of the style heap.
COLNADO (Passeig de Gracia 63) is a bit touristy, but can't be beat for its wide selection of packaged foods, perfect to take home to your starving artist friends.
OTRA VEZ (Avinyo 25) wins the prize as the city's grooviest vintage store, with fabu retreads for both geners. We luvved the 60's gear and 70's disco glitter tops. Turn that beat around!

NIGHTLIFE

CHEEK TO CHEEK (Muntaner 325) is a mixed, uber-trendy alternative to big dance halls. As such, it's a much better way to meet (or whatever) the local gentry. Super cool.
PADAM PADAM (Rauric 9), located in Barcelona's boho downtown area, is a wonderful early evening start-off bar, despite the dour staff. It's a great place to find invitations for one-night only clubs, too.
SANTANASSA (Aribau 27) attracts everyone from young punks to high-class youth on the prowl. The wacky scene reflects the city's special energy better than almost anywhere else; thus, it's highly recommended indeed.
ARENA (Balmes 32) is the most happening gay club, but don't even think about popping in before 1 am. The music is totally of the moment, and the lads couldn't be more fetching.
METRO (Sepulveda 185) is the answer to every scenester's prayer. One side is devoted to classic Catalan music and flamenco (I couldn't tell if the effect was supposed to be campy or classic); the other is a way modern dance house. Barcelona's after-dark elite meet and greet here – shouldn't you do the same?

By David Andrusia